How to ensure a successful first meeting between two dogs?
Encounters between dogs are never insignificant. They shape how your companion perceives other dogs and have a lasting influence on their emotional balance.
When properly supervised, these encounters become genuine learning opportunities: your dog develops its communication skills, expends energy appropriately, and gains confidence. Conversely, a poorly managed encounter can generate stress, tension, and even create lasting difficulties.
Learning to prepare for these moments, to read communication signals and to intervene appropriately is essential to providing your dog with positive and safe social experiences.
In this chapter, you will discover how to maximize your chances of making each encounter a lever for progress and not a source of worry.
Does my dog have encounters that are appropriate for his age and temperament?
What are the essential conditions before introducing two dogs?
How to properly prepare for a meeting between two dogs?
Are all encounters between dogs necessary?
Is there an ideal frequency of meetings for all dogs?
Is it possible to organize meetings between dogs of very different sizes?
Should you pick up your dog when meeting someone?
What should you do if a large dog runs loose and seems threatening?
What should I do if my dog growls consistently during encounters?


Does my dog experience interactions that are appropriate for his age and temperament?
Puppy socialization begins at a very young age and plays a crucial role in its future behavior towards other dogs. During the sensitive period, approximately between 3 and 14 weeks of age, puppies are particularly receptive to new experiences. The interactions they have during this time have a lasting influence on their ability to communicate, manage their emotions, and adapt to different types of dogs.
A puppy that is properly socialized during this phase generally develops better social skills throughout its life. This doesn’t mean it will like all dogs, but that it will have social skills that allow it to interact in a more balanced way.
However, socialization does not stop after this key period. It continues in adolescence and adulthood through regular and appropriate experiences.
For an adult dog unaccustomed to meeting new people, the introduction process must be particularly gradual and respectful of its pace. It is important to avoid sudden situations that could reinforce any existing apprehension.
Start with distanced exposures. The goal is to allow your dog to observe other dogs without direct interaction, while remaining below its stress threshold. As long as it can look at the other dog without tensing up, barking, or pulling, the distance is appropriate.
Consistently reward calm behaviors: looking at you, a relaxed posture, and the ability to ignore the other dog. Treats, a gentle voice, or petting (if your dog enjoys it in this context) help create a positive association.
Gradually, and only if your dog remains relaxed, you can reduce the distance. Each step must be completed successfully before moving on to the next. It’s better to progress slowly and steadily than to rush things.
This gradual approach fosters a positive association between the presence of other dogs and enjoyable experiences. Over time, it helps to strengthen your companion’s confidence and emotional stability.
To remember
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The 3–14 week period is key, but social learning continues throughout life.
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The quality of experiences is more important than their quantity.
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Distance is an essential tool for respecting the dog’s comfort threshold.
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Progress should always be tailored to the individual.
What are the essential conditions before introducing two dogs?
How to properly prepare for a meeting between two dogs?
Before allowing two dogs to meet, take the time to talk with the other owner. Make sure you are both comfortable and at ease with the situation. If either of you is worried or hesitant, it’s best to postpone the meeting. Dogs are very sensitive to our emotions: tension on your part can quickly influence their behavior.
When you decide to let them approach, keep them on a leash or long line, making sure to keep the equipment slack. A taut leash can cause stress or a feeling of being trapped in the dog, and provoke a defensive reaction. The approach should be calm and gradual, without force.
Choosing the right partner is essential, especially for a first experience. Opt for a calm, balanced, and well-socialized dog capable of communicating appropriately. Avoid dogs that are too boisterous, intrusive, or highly excitable, as they could overwhelm a puppy or a sensitive dog.
The environment also plays a crucial role. Opt for a neutral, spacious, safe, and unstimulating location. An open space allows dogs to observe each other, approach, or distance themselves without pressure. Always keep a simple way to leave if necessary.
During the interaction, remain attentive. Watch for body language, prevent leashes from tangling, and be prepared to calmly step away if you observe signs of tension (stiffness, growling, marked avoidance). Never intervene by putting your hands between two dogs in conflict: your safety is paramount.
Finally, keep in mind that a successful meeting is above all a short and positive one. It’s better to end on a good note rather than prolonging the conversation until fatigue or overexcitement sets in.
By taking the time to prepare and structure these moments, you increase the chances that your dog will have positive and constructive experiences with other dogs.
Common mistakes to avoid
Forcing the Encounter
If a dog freezes, looks away, backs away, or tries to position itself behind you, it is expressing discomfort. Ignoring these signals can turn a simple hesitation into a lasting negative experience..
Choosing an unsuitable partner
A dog that is too energetic or not very attentive can undermine the confidence of a puppy or a sensitive dog.
Keeping a leash constantly taut
Constant tension increases stress and can promote defensive reactions.
Prolonging the meeting excessively
Even when everything seems to be going well, fatigue and excitement can alter the balance of the interaction.
Ignoring communication signals
Dogs communicate constantly. A slight growl or avoidance is not “bad behavior,” but a message that should be heeded.
Putting yourself in danger
Never put your hands between two dogs in tension. Protecting your physical safety remains a priority.
Are all encounters between dogs necessary?
Encountering another dog while yours is with you is perfectly normal. During walks or when relatives visit with their pets, your dog will naturally meet new people over time.
However, every dog is different. Some are very comfortable with other dogs, while others need more time or space to feel confident. It’s important to respect your dog’s pace, without pressure or comparison.
If you see another dog on the street and don’t feel ready to allow an encounter, that’s perfectly acceptable. You can calmly change direction or simply explain to the other person that you’re working with your dog and would prefer to avoid interaction for the time being.
You are your dog’s anchor. By making choices that suit their comfort level, you help them progress safely. Not every encounter is necessary: what matters is the quality of the experiences they have, not their quantity.
Is there an ideal frequency of meetings for all dogs?
The ideal frequency of interactions varies depending on your dog’s temperament, age, and experience. Some dogs, naturally sociable and confident, enjoy regular, sometimes even daily, interactions. Others, more reserved or sensitive, prefer less frequent encounters.
There is no universal rhythm. The quality of interactions always takes precedence over their quantity. A short, calm, and positive interaction will be far more beneficial than a series of stressful or ill-suited encounters.
Observe your dog’s behavior carefully after an interaction. Does he seem relaxed, playful, and curious during subsequent walks? Or, on the contrary, more vigilant, tense, or avoidant? These observations will help you adjust the frequency of your encounters.
Age also plays an important role.
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The puppy needs varied experiences to develop its social skills, but always in a gradual and supervised manner.
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An adult dog may have an already established rhythm and not feel the need to interact frequently.
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Senior dogs, on the other hand, may prefer calmer and less frequent interactions.
It is also essential to respect rest periods. Dogs need time to process their experiences. Too much social stimulation can lead to fatigue or irritability.
To remember
Adjust the frequency of dog-to-dog interactions to suit your dog’s personality, comfort level, and development. A well-balanced dog isn’t necessarily one that meets the most other dogs, but one that experiences interactions tailored to its needs.
Is it possible to organize meetings between dogs of very different sizes?
Yes, it’s possible, but it requires special vigilance.
A difference in size is not in itself an obstacle to harmonious interaction. Many dogs of very different sizes get along perfectly. However, the physical disparity can increase risks, especially during playtime. A large dog, even with the best intentions, can unintentionally injure a smaller one with a sudden movement, a swipe of the paw, or a fall.
It is therefore essential to carefully monitor the interaction, especially at the beginning. Observe the posture and attitude of both dogs. The smaller dog must be able to move around freely, move away if it feels the need, and not show any signs of persistent fear (low tail, frozen body, repeated attempts to avoid).
Temperament matters more than size. A large, calm dog, capable of self-regulating during play, will often be a better match than a small, very excitable, and boisterous dog. Similarly, a small, confident dog will be able to interact peacefully with a larger companion.
Choose a spacious and safe environment that allows even the youngest child to easily put some distance between themselves and the child. Avoid confined spaces where they might feel trapped. If they become too excited, calmly interrupt the interaction and suggest a break.
It can be helpful, initially, to limit the duration of interactions and favor quiet moments over intense physical games. Encounters while moving (walking side-by-side at a comfortable distance) can also be a good alternative before allowing closer contact.
Finally, keep in mind that the goal is not to force a relationship. If one of the two dogs seems consistently uncomfortable despite your adjustments, it’s best to respect their boundaries.
To remember
Size is not the determining factor:
– temperament
– self-control
– environment
– and your supervision
are the true keys to a successful interaction.
Should you pick up your dog during a meeting?
Picking up your puppy as soon as another dog appears in the distance might seem reassuring, especially with a small breed like the Pomeranian. However, this reaction doesn’t help your puppy learn to manage the presence of other dogs.
By picking him up immediately, you prevent him from observing and analyzing the situation and gradually learning canine communication codes. He develops neither self-confidence nor social skills. In the long term, this can reinforce a form of insecurity: your puppy may associate the sight of another dog with a “dangerous” situation requiring protection.
In Pomeranians, which are naturally vigilant and sometimes sensitive, this overprotection can accentuate:
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barking at a distance,
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mistrust towards other members of one’s species,
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excessive dependence on the owner
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even reactions of fear or irritation.
This doesn’t mean you should never wear a dog leash. If the environment is truly unsuitable (uncontrolled dog running loose, overcrowded space, immediate danger), securing the dog is legitimate. The difference lies in the intention: protecting from real danger, yes; avoiding all exposure through anticipated fear, no.
The goal is to accompany your puppy on the ground, at a comfortable distance, remaining calm and rewarding relaxed behavior. This is how it will gradually learn to live with others and develop strong confidence.
To remember
Protecting doesn’t mean avoiding.
A safe Pomeranian, accompanied and gradually exposed to social situations, will become more stable than a puppy systematically deprived of them.
What should you do if a large dog runs loose and seems threatening?
In this type of situation, your priority is safety, not learning.
If a large dog arrives unattended without visible control from its owner:
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Remain calm and adopt a stable posture.
Avoid shouting or panicking, as this could increase the overall excitement. -
Position yourself physically in front of your puppy.
Your body becomes a natural barrier. Keep the leash short but without excessive tension. -
Assert yourself verbally.
A firm, steady voice (“Stop!”, “No!”, “We’re stopping!”) can sometimes interrupt the dog’s approach.. -
Don’t immediately pick up your puppy if the larger dog is already nearby and excited. Picking it up could cause it to jump, throw you off balance, or attract more attention. Furthermore, a small dog on a raised surface can become more vulnerable if the larger dog tries to reach it.
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If the distance allows, move away calmly in an arc rather than in a straight line, without running.
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As a last resort, if the situation becomes truly dangerous and you have the time to do it safely, putting your puppy up high may be justified.
An essential point for a Pomeranian Spitz
Because of its small size, a collision, even an unintentional one, can be more dangerous than for a large dog. It is therefore important to anticipate the environment and avoid areas where dogs are regularly let off-leash without control.
However, make a clear distinction:
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Protection against real danger
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Systematic overprotection by anticipation
A puppy that learns to observe calmly from a distance develops more confidence than a puppy that is always removed from situations.
What should I do if my dog growls consistently during encounters?
Growling is primarily a communication signal. It’s not “bad behavior,” but a warning. By growling, your dog is expressing discomfort, anxiety, or a need for distance. This signal often helps prevent an escalation to a more intense reaction.
It is therefore essential never to punish a growl. Reprimanding your dog could teach it to stop giving warnings… while still maintaining its discomfort. In this case, the next step could be more abrupt and less predictable.
The first step is to observe the context.
Does your dog growl when another dog approaches too quickly? When on a leash? In a confined space? With certain types of dogs (very excitable, aggressive, large dogs, etc.)? Identifying the triggers helps to better understand the origin of the behavior.
Several factors can explain these reactions:
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a lack of or a negative experience of socialization
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a negative past experience,
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fear or anxiety,
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physical pain,
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resource protection (you, a toy, a space).
If in doubt, it may be advisable to first check your dog’s health with a veterinarian to rule out any pain.
Next, the work must be gradual. It’s not about increasing the number of encounters, but about recreating positive experiences at a comfortable distance. Exposures should be controlled, short, and associated with pleasant elements (rewards, encouragement, and creating distance as soon as the dog needs it).
If growling is frequent or escalating, consulting a qualified professional (dog trainer or behaviorist) is strongly recommended. A tailored desensitization and counter-conditioning program will address the root cause of the problem.
Mistakes to avoid when dealing with a growling dog
Punishing or scolding the dog
Reprimanding a growl may seem logical in the moment, but it doesn’t address the underlying cause of the problem. You risk simply teaching your dog not to give warnings before reacting more strongly.
Forcing the encounter to “get him used to it”
Intentionally putting your dog in uncomfortable situations can reinforce his fear or irritability. Habituation only works if the exposure is gradual and controlled.
Minimize the signals
A growl is never “for nothing.” Ignoring it is like ignoring an important message. The sooner you intervene, the easier it is to defuse the situation.
Putting your dog in a cycle of failure
A string of difficult encounters can reinforce a negative association. Every experience counts: fewer situations, but positive ones, are better.
Intervening hastily
Yelling, jerking on the leash, or physically tensing up can increase tension. Try to remain calm and simply increase the distance.
Waiting for the situation to worsen before seeking help
If the growling becomes frequent or more intense, professional support allows for quick and effective action.
To remember
A growling dog is communicating.
Your role is to listen, understand, and adapt the environment to help the dog feel safe.
Respecting this signal strengthens the trust between you and your dog.
Why are some matches more tense than others?
Sometimes, there is more tension between males, especially when they are not neutered. Hormones can play a role and make some encounters more sensitive. This doesn’t necessarily mean they are trying to “dominate,” but rather that they may have more difficulty tolerating each other depending on the context.
Relationships between females are not always easier. Disagreements can also arise, especially if they have strong personalities or if a resource (attention, space, toy) is at stake.
Meetings between a male and a female are often simpler, but again, it all depends on the dogs’ temperaments. A female can very well put an overly persistent male in his place. She will generally do so through clear signals: a growl, slightly raised lips, a pointed stare, or a stiffer posture. These signals are part of normal communication between dogs and serve to set boundaries without escalating to conflict.
In reality, the dog’s sex is only one factor among many. Character, training, past experiences, and the context of the encounter play an equally important role.
Building positive and safe encounters
Dog-to-dog encounters should neither be trivialized nor feared. They are part of your companion’s social life and contribute to their emotional well-being, provided they are prepared for and adapted accordingly.
A successful interaction relies on several essential elements:
respecting the dog’s pace, choosing an appropriate partner, a safe environment, attentive supervision, and the ability to recognize communication signals.
It’s not necessary to have a lot of interactions to properly socialize a dog. Quality always trumps quantity. A short, positive, and controlled experience will be far more beneficial than repeated and stressful exposure.
Whether it is a puppy in training, a reserved adult dog, interactions between males or encounters with dogs of different sizes, each situation deserves careful consideration and adaptation.
Finally, protecting your dog does not mean isolating it. The goal is to gradually guide it towards safe social experiences, so that it develops confidence, stability, and adaptability.
En apprenant à observer, à anticiper et à intervenir avec justesse, vous devenez un repère fiable pour votre chien — et c’est là la clé de rencontres harmonieuses.

